I have visited the Oki Islands twice so far. The unique landscapes and terrain make you feel the dynamism of the earth, the rich food ingredients such as Oki beef and rock oysters, and the carefree smiles and laughter of the islanders. Every time I’ve been there, there’s always been something I’ve felt.
There’s something like magma, a hot energy, constantly swirling quietly beneath the surface, drawing people in, or signaling that something new is about to begin—almost as if it’s a breath of life. Is it something emanating from the people who live there? Or is it a magnetic force from the land itself? Perhaps it’s something akin to the earth’s own power. Until now, I could never quite pinpoint what it was. But now, I feel like I might finally understand.
A great challenge from a small island, floating in the corner of the Earth.
UNESCO Global Geopark and World Natural Heritage
My feeling, likening it to magma, doesn’t seem to have been far off. The Oki Islands, including the entire Oki Islands area (Dōgo, Okinoshima Town) and the islands of Dōzen area (Ama Town, Nishinoshima Town, Chibu Village), were designated as a 'Global Geopark' in 2013. Following this, in 2015, the UNESCO Global Geopark program became an official UNESCO project, and the Oki Islands have been actively participating as one of the 'UNESCO Global Geoparks' alongside 169 regions in 44 countries worldwide. As of April 2021, 43 regions in Japan have been registered as 'Japan Geoparks,' and among them, nine, including Oki, have also received the UNESCO Global Geopark designation.
By the way, do you know what a 'Geopark' is? When you hear the word 'geo,' you might think of words like 'geography,' 'diorama,' 'Earth,' or 'land,' which evoke grand images. A 'Geopark' refers not only to geologically significant heritage sites from an Earth science perspective but also to parks where one can learn about and experience ecosystems, history, culture, and the relationship between human activities and the land and Earth. Interestingly, the 'Geopark' includes not only natural environments but also artificial spaces within the certified area, such as private gardens, residential areas, and reclaimed land. In this sense, the people and their activities who live there are also integral components of the geopark. For the people living on the island, it might be too familiar to even be aware of, but the fact that they could say, 'I live within a UNESCO Global Geopark,' is something special and undeniably cool and enviable.
Another major UNESCO project that everyone is familiar with is the 'World Natural Heritage'. Many may think that the 'UNESCO Global Geopark' is quite similar to 'World Natural Heritage'. However, there is actually a significant difference in the objectives of both activities.
"World Natural Heritage" refers to natural areas of outstanding universal value that are recognized as part of humanity's shared heritage and protected and preserved. It involves establishing international cooperation and assistance to conserve and safeguard these areas.
"Global Geopark" focuses on the protection of significant geological and geomorphological heritage, as well as promoting the sustainable development of society, economy, and culture. The key difference between a World Natural Heritage site and a Global Geopark lies in their approach. While World Natural Heritage sites center around the protection and conservation of "resources," Global Geoparks also emphasize the "utilization" of these resources for the "sustainable development of the region." Furthermore, it is the "local communities" that play a central role in a Geopark, not just the physical resources themselves. Geoparks cannot exist on geological heritage alone; they rely on the active involvement of local residents who sustainably preserve and make use of these resources. This community-driven aspect is a critical and distinguishing factor of Geoparks.
Because of the rich land, the 'ways of life' that have been nurtured here
What comes to mind when you hear the word "Oki"? Perhaps the islands where Emperor Go-Toba (1180-1239) and Emperor Go-Daigo (1288-1339) were exiled, small islands far from the mainland in the Sea of Japan… These might all evoke negative images like "loneliness," "a remote land," or "a faraway place." In fact, I won’t deny that I held such impressions and images myself before visiting the area. However, it didn’t take long for these perceptions to be completely overturned.
I visited during the spring. The Sea of Oki was calm as if a blue carpet had been spread across it, silently and serenely. When I let myself relax in that space, my heart, too, seemed to calm like the sea before me. It felt like my senses were being freed and opened up—a wonderfully pleasant sensation. Across the island, there are many poems left behind, but I wonder, what kind of expression did the noble people of ancient times have as they gazed at this sea? Looking back through history, it is well-known that Oki was a place of exile. I believe the negative image of the island is closely tied to that history. Other famous places of exile in Japan include Sado Island, Izu Islands, and Awa Region. In fact, there are solid reasons behind why these regions were chosen as places of exile.
Even though they were criminals, they were originally members of the royal family, nobility, or priests—people of high social standing. If the place of exile were truly a remote land, it would be problematic. The main purpose of exile was to separate them from the country's central power. Hence, the areas chosen were "regions that, while inconvenient for travel to and from the capital, did not cause hardship for living and where safety was guaranteed."
In other words, it is nothing less than evidence that Oki has had a rich foundation for living since ancient times.
Oki has long been a source of high-quality obsidian, trading with various regions across Japan since ancient times. It was offered as a necessity for the emperor, religious ceremonies, and national affairs. Even today, the island's economy is supported by high-quality seafood, which is an important industry. Oki also played a significant role as a key port for the kitamaebune (trading ships and their routes from the Edo period to the Meiji Era). These factors led to extensive human interaction, logistics, and blending of diverse external cultures with Oki's unique culture, weaving and sustaining "human endeavors."
"The Formation of the Land" and "Unique Ecosystem"
So, what lies at the root and foundation of that history and human activity? It is, quite literally, the unique environment and topography of Oki—the "formation of the land"—and the "unique ecosystem" that arose from it.
The formation of Oki’s land dates back to a time when it was part of the continent. Over time, portions of the continent broke off, forming lakes and rivers. Eventually, seawater flowed in, giving birth to the Sea of Japan. Later, volcanic activity shaped the original form of the Oki Islands. It is believed that both Dōzen (Nishinoshima Town, Ama Town, And Chibu Village) and Dōgo (Okinoshima Town) were formed by the eruption of magma from the same underground magma reservoir. At that moment, I felt as though I had glimpsed the true nature of the heat and quiet stirring I had sensed.
Furthermore, during the peninsula era, the shape of the land repeatedly shifted between being a peninsula and islands due to fluctuations in sea levels. This process continued until approximately 10,000 years ago when the current topography of Oki was formed. Across Oki, the memories of each era are preserved in the land’s features, such as its topography, geography, and rock formations. But these memories are not limited to the land’s geological heritage alone. During the time when the land was alternately a peninsula and separate islands, Oki was exposed not only to fluctuations in sea levels but also to significant climatic changes, such as intense temperature shifts. As a result, Oki has a unique and mysterious ecosystem, where plants found in both Hokkaido and Okinawa coexist, as well as species from continental, alpine, and glacial periods. These diverse species still coexist today, forming a remarkable and rare ecosystem that is of global interest. These, too, are invaluable resources that preserve the ancient memories of the land.